August 30, 2020.

Carrying on from the previous post, to measure the movement needed to get the clutch to work, I sourced a turnbuckle from Bunnings, which avoided having to set up a temp hydraulic set up and it had the bonus of being able to measure how much movement was needed to get the clutch to release. From this I could see it was within the working range of the slave cylinder.

After I was sure as I can be that the clutch works as designed it was finally time to put it back in the car. First the transmission came back off of the engine, this was then dropped in the car and moved as far back as possible.

Then using the hoist off of the garage roof beam I picked the engine up, positioned the car under it and then lowered it into place.

Once the engine and transmission were slid back together the studs could be screwed in and then finally all the nuts done up tight. There was no way I was going to be able to align the the 2 parts with the studs pre-installed on the plate so it had to be done this way.

With the engine in the removable chassis tube was reinstated.

Next was to make some final decisions on the water feed from and to the engine, after many different ideas, the final choice is simple enough. On the discharge cut off the outlet from being horizontal and re-attach it vertically to a newly cut hole, then block of and weld up the unneeded holes.

Here it is back from the welders, along with the parts cut to make the inlet and the 3D printed prototype of the inlet. The 3 threaded holes on the left of the water bridge are for temperature sensors only 2 are needed now so the right most is filled with a short bolt now, I may only need 1 if I can take the temperature gauge value straight from the ECU.

Another job done was to fit Bosch knock sensors, these are under the inlet manifold along with the starter motor, so the installation / wiring needs to be done before the manifold can go on. In theory the OEM units should have worked with the ECU, but its known that the Bosch one definitely do and I didn’t want to stuff about. To bolt these down to the block a adapter stud need to be made.

To hold the wiring in place under there I machined a little bracket to cable tie to.

By the way all of the flat machined bits were done on the MPCNC.

A couple of other bits that were welded was the connection for the air supply to the idle air control valve.

And the mounting for the air inlet temperature sensor.

Also shown is the 3D printed prototype for the throttle wheel / pulley, I think I’ll end up making my own of those too.