October 9, 2020.

I’ve been told that the page with the transmission adapter drawings was not working correctly, so this has been fixed, see HERE.

The wideband O2 controllers from 14Point7.com arrived, I’d suspected that the sensor bungs I’d fitted to the headers many years ago were the wrong thread so I’d held off installing those on the car. Sure enough the the thread was the wrong one for the Bosch 02 sensors so new ones of those were made (M18 x 1.5).

With these welded in place on the headers, they could then be fitted to the car.

The next item to arrive in the post was refurbished 12 hole injectors, these are no larger than the original 2 hole design, but should give better fuel atomization which should in general make things better for lack of a full technical explanation.

The next stage is to sort out the wiring which mean the wire mangment on the engine need to be addressed to know where the wires would run. The MPCNC was pressed into service to cut out plates for the wing to be tied to. This is the drivers side, the ignition pate will sit on top of stand offs so the wring will be on the underside.

These are fair large parts and I’m still amazed a self built machine like the MPCNC can do this stuff.

Prototype parts for the left hand side, it’s much faster to 3D print a bit to test fit than cut metal.

This is the final part for the left hand ignition coils after the machine finished cutting.

Note the test passes on the bottom of the sheet, there’s a learning curve for sure in getting this to work.

To connect the air filter to the tube feeding the engine a transition piece is required. If I can successfully use polycarbonate (PC) fillament on my 3D printer then this should be both strong enough and temperature resistant enough for the application. PC has a glass transition temperature (goes soft) of 140c and needs to be printed at 270c or higher on a bed temperature of at least 100c. This is the absolute limit of what my machine can do.

A prototype part was done in PLA then an attempt was made at the PC version. They are opposite ways up in the picture below:

Unfortunately the PC split at some layer lines, have read on the reasons for this happening I will make another attempt at the part. But this time it will be enclosed by a shroud printed at the same time to duct bed heat close to the part and keep it from cooling too fast.

A first test with the thin wall shroud as a cone showed it would split on its own, by making the surface wavy I hope it allows the stresses in the layers to flex rather than split the part.

The results of this will be in the next post.